Leopard Geckos are insectivores – meaning they eat only insects. Leopard Geckos, unlike other geckos and reptiles, do not eat and cannot digest vegetables, leafy greens, regular meat, or many other food sources that we may be used to.
A healthy diet for a pet Leopard Gecko consists mainly of worms (like mealworms), crickets, or roaches (like Dubia roaches).
In addition to the feeder insects on this food list, they need certain supplements to stay healthy: mainly Calcium and Vitamin D, but also a mix of other micronutrients.
However, to keep your Leopard Gecko healthy, there are more things to consider. Read on to learn about the important rules for feeding your Leo to keep it happy and safe.
Nutritional Requirements of Leopard Geckos
Before we get into the specifics, let’s look at the general nutritional requirements of your Leopard Gecko. Luckily, the science behind their diet and ours are quite similar. Protein still builds muscle, and fat is still high in calories. Don’t worry, though, only a few key nutrients matter – and you can skip this section and still do okay.
Protein: For carnivorous reptiles, the Merck Veterinary Manual recommends a diet with around 50% protein. Most feeder insects are very high in protein – Mealworms have around 60%, and crickets and black soldier fly larvae are even higher. (Note that these numbers are excluding moisture content)
Fat: Leopard Geckos store fat in their bodies, which is necessary in the wild for survival, as they don’t have consistent feeding schedules there. There is no specific research on the ideal amount of fat in a Leopard Gecko diet, but research on insectivore diets recommends around 20%.
Fiber: A decent amount of fiber is necessary for healthy digestion – just like in humans. General research recommends around 10%, although feeder insects tend to be quite low in fiber. Gut-loading with fiber-rich vegetables and greens helps with that. (More on gut-loading later)
Calcium: Calcium is the most important mineral for Leopard Geckos, as it’s needed for many critical parts: Keeping their bones healthy, and their metabolism, it’s needed for producing eggs (mainly the shells), and general functioning. Calcium deficiency is a real problem for many captive reptiles, and can quickly lead to fatal Metabolic Bone Disease.
Vitamin D: This vitamin is just as important as Calcium, as it is needed for the body to absorb the consumed Calcium. Vitamin D is converted to the hormone calcitriol, the “active vitamin D”, which is responsible for absorbing calcium from food sources in the gut. Without Vitamin D, the Leopard Gecko might be eating plenty of calcium, but still be deficient, as it cannot be taken in by their digestive tract. This leads to their body absorbing calcium from internal stores: mainly bone tissue. Hence the name “Metabolic Bone Disease”: They are essentially absorbing their own bones for survival. (source: ScienceDirect)
Vitamin A: The last of the essential nutrients. Vitamin A is needed not only for eyesight but also for healthy skin and the immune system. As Leopard Geckos shed their skin every four to eight weeks, a vitamin A deficiency can lead to shedding problems, which can be dangerous. Additionally, a Leopard Gecko with a weak immune system can easily get infections such as Mouth Rot.
Food List for Leopard Geckos
A healthy diet for Leopard Geckos consists of a variety of food sources. Only feeding a single type of insect does not satisfy a Leo’s nutritional needs. It also does not stimulate them much. Similarly, geckos don’t enjoy dead or dried insects. They are, after all, predators.
When planning a Leopard Gecko’s diet, you need to consider two categories of feeder insects:
Staple feeders can be fed every week or even with every meal. They provide solid nutritional profiles and no big downsides. However, it’s best to not rely on a single staple feeder, as a varied diet is important to prevent imbalances.
Treats can be fed occasionally, but should not be fed too often. Usually, once or twice a month is fine.
With that in mind, let’s explore the full list of safe food choices.
Live worms
Worms are a popular choice for Leopard Geckos as they are so easy to store, can be bought in bulk, and are easy to feed. However, they often contain more fat than crickets or roaches. Feeding your gecko worms too often can lead to malnutrition and/or obesity.
Mealworms
Tenebrio molitor
Mealworms are probably the most common choice, and usually well-liked by Leopard Geckos. They are safe to eat (if fed at the right size) for baby geckos, juveniles, and adults.
However, their high fat content can cause obesity if feed too much or too often – especially because your Leo might happily eat more than they need. Mealworms can also cause impaction, which is a life-threatening digestive problem, but this can easily be avoided by feeding them properly.
Mealworms are the larvae of the Darkling Beetle, and may still be fed as pupa, but the beetle itself should never be put in the tank with your Leopard Gecko, as it is not only too hard to eat, but can hurt your Leo.
Hornworms
Manduca sexta
Hornworms, also known as Goliath Worms, are popular as treats among Leopard Geckos. However, unlike mealworms, hornworms have no chitin, which makes them easier to digest. They also contain less fat and more calcium, both good. Their high Calcium and water content also makes them a good choice as a supplement to nurture sick geckos back to health.
Hornworms come with downsides, though: They are quite low in nutritional value (protein and fat), and should only be fed as treats.
Additionally, hornworms grow rapidly – within two weeks, they can grow from 0.5 inches (1,2 cm) to up to 3 or 4 inches (7,5 to 10cm). At that size, they are way too big for juvenile geckos, and even adults might struggle with them. This makes hornworms impractical for longer-term storage.
Waxworms
Galleria mellonella
While waxworms are generally well received by Leopard Geckos, they should not be used as a regular food source. Their nutritional profile is poor, and with their high fat content, waxworms should only be used as the occasional treat. For that, they are a good choice, though. You can also feed waxworms to an underweight gecko for a short time (supplementing their normal diet) to help it gain back weight. Waxworms turn into wax moths, which can still be eaten by geckos, but they might not like chasing after a flying insect.
Butterworm
Chilecomadia moorei
Butterworms have an even higher fat content than waxworms, and should only be considered for your Leopard Gecko as the occasional treat or to nurse them back to health if they get sick and don’t eat much.
They are also difficult to raise/breed in captivity, because they exclusively eat the leaves of the Trevo plant (Trevoa trenervis) that grows in Chile. This also makes gut-loading them impossible.
Superworm
Zophobas morio
Superworms (also knows as kingworm or morio worm) are essentially giant mealworms – they belong to the same species, but grow much larger. While regular mealworms reach about 1 inch / 2cm in length, Superworms reach up to 2.25 inch / 6cm in length.
This makes them too large for any juvenile leopard gecko, and even fully grown geckos might struggle with them.
Additionally, they have a higher fat content and lower protein content than mealworms, making them even less ideal as feeder insect. They are good for a underweight geckos that need to quickly gain weight again, but as a regular meal, Superworms can lead to obesity.
Silkworm
Bombyx mori
Silkworms are the larval (or caterpillar) stages of the Mulberry silkmoth, and while they can be fed to Leopard Geckos, it takes a lot more effort to store them and keep them alive. They require a specific temperature and feed only on mulberry leaves. You will have to invest some money into keeping silkworms alive and healthy in their own little enclosure, which is too much effort for most gecko keepers. They also aren’t as easily available in pet stores as other worms.
Phoenix Worm / Black Soldier Fly Larvae
Hermetia illucens
These worms are a little more complicated to keep, but are very popular feeder insects for Leopard Geckos. Usually called Black Soldier Fly Larvae, these larvae should not be fed, kept in a box with soil, and need to be briefly washed before fed to your gecko.
However, their excellent nutritional profile is worth the effort for many gecko keepers. They are high enough in Calcium to cover your gecko’s needs, and contain a range of other beneficial micro-nutrients. They can be used as a major part of your gecko’s diet, but should not be fed exclusively. They are also more expensive and harder to get and keep than other worms, like mealworms.
Non-Worms
Besides the common worms, Leopard Geckos eat a wide variety of insects in the wild – even baby rodents and bigger prey like scorpions. However, one of the reasons why Leopard Geckos in captivity live so much longer than wild ones is the safer, healthier food supply.
Over the years, two main non-worm feeder insects have established themselves as a combination of gecko-friendly and owner-friendly: Easy to buy, easy to keep, a good nutritional profile, and safe to feed to your little reptile.
Crickets
Acheta domesticus
Crickets are a staple food source for Leopard Geckos. They can be fed consistently as a main course, as their nutritional profile fits the need of a gecko well. They can also be fed throughout the entire lifespan of the gecko – from baby to adult geckos.
The downside is that crickets need a little more space to keep than mealworms, for example, and that they are noisy. Still, crickets should be a major part of your reptile’s diet.
Dubia Roaches
Blaptica dubia
Dubia Roaches are similar to crickets in terms of their nutritional advantages, but without the jumping. This makes it easier for the gecko to catch them, and they hardly ever escape. Male dubia roaches do have wings, but are not actually able to fly up and away. (source) They also don’t make loud noises like crickets do.
They grow up to around 1.8 inches (4.5cm), which is fairly large for a Leopard Gecko. Make sure to only feed small ones to a juvenile.
Feeder insect overview
Staple
Mealworms. Easy to buy and keep, affordable, safe. High fat content.
Crickets. Easy to buy, relatively easy to keep. Low fat content. Makes noise.
Black Soldier Fly Larvae. More effort to buy and keep, but great nutritional profile.
Treats
Hornworms. High calcium and moisture, but low in nutrients. Have to be bought relatively fresh.
Waxworms. High fat content. Good for gaining weight. Not dangerous once turned to moths. (can be safely eaten)
Butterworm. Difficult to get and keep, but very high fat content. Good for quick weight gain.
Superworm. Only suitable for adult geckos. More fat than mealworms, but just as easy to keep.
Silkworm. Difficult to get and keep, but liked by geckos.
Nutritional profiles of Feeder Insects
If you want to make sure your Leopard Gecko has a close to ideal diet, choosing the right mix of feeder insects is important. What matters most is the right amount of protein compared to fat – too much fat, and your little gecko will soon be obese.
Since geckos are predators, living in a food-scarce environment in the wild, they will often overeat when given the chance. If you feed them too much, or offer mostly fatty insects, they will not regulate their feeding. That’s why it’s up to you to provide a healthy diet.
Luckily, that isn’t too hard. Generally, aim for a mix of about 30-50% fatty feeder insects, and about 70-50% lean feeder insects. Adjust as necessary if your gecko is visibly gaining or losing weight.
The first percentage of Protein and Fat is the total content in the insect. The second number is the amount of calories coming from protein and fat, which is important for the diet. About 50% should be from protein.
| Insect | Type | Moisture | Protein | Fat | Protein % | Fat% |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mealworms | Fatty | 62% | 20% | 12% | 43% | 57% |
| Crickets | Lean | 69% | 21% | 6% | 61% | 39% |
| Black Soldier Fly Larvae | Lean-ish | 68% | 15% | 8% | 47% | 53% |
| Dubia Roaches | Lean | 70% | 19% | 6% | 58% | 42% |
| Hornworms | – | 85% | 9% | 3% | 57% | 43% |
| Waxworms | Fatty | 61% | 15% | 22% | 23% | 77% |
| Butterworm | Fatty | 60% | 15% | 29% | 19% | 81% |
| Superworm | Fatty | 59% | 17% | 17% | 31% | 69% |
| Silkworm | Lean | 69% | 21% | 6% | 61% | 39% |
Sources:
- http://www.grubco.com/nutritional_information.cfm
- https://www.topflightdubia.com/hornworms
- https://reptilesupply.com/blogs/feeder-insects/frequently-asked-questions-faq-butterworms
- https://dubiaroaches.com/blogs/feeder-insects/dubia-roach-nutrition-facts
Toxic and dangerous food for Leopard Geckos
As established, Leopard Geckos are insectivores. Food that isn’t an insect should not be fed to your gecko. However, there is more to it than that.
Most vegetables can be fed safely to the feeder insects to cover the gecko’s micro-nutrient needs indirectly, as the gecko cannot digest the vegetables directly. That’s because their bodies don’t have a Cecum, which would be responsible for digesting Cellulose, a substance found in fruit and vegetables. Leopard Geckos also have a short, alkaline digestive tract, as opposed to herbivores, which have a longer, acidic digestive tract.
That’s why feeding vegetables to your gecko is not only pointless (they can’t extract the nutrients), but can also lead to digestive issues, which can get quite dangerous.
Additionally, Leopard Geckos should never be fed:
Glowing bugs. Anything that glows, like fireflies or lightning bugs, is extremely toxic to geckos. Eating a single firefly can kill a gecko within hours. (source)
Self-caught insects and worms. While it may seem easy to go outside and fetch some insects or worms to feed to a gecko, this can be a fatal mistake. Geckos live much longer as pets (15-20 years) than in the wild (3-8 years) partially because of the higher food quality (source). Sickness, disease, and infections are very common in wild Leopard Geckos, which usually stem from their food sources. That’s why it’s always better to stick to quality, store-bought insects.
Supplements for Leopard Geckos
Beyond proteins and fats, Leopard Geckos need Calcium, Phosphorus, and a few Vitamins to stay healthy. Calcium is the easiest for pet geckos to get deficient in – this leads to Metabolic Bone Disease, a health condition that can be fatal for your little gecko. Calcium deficiency occurs when the gecko’s diet is not properly supplemented with Calcium and Vitamin D, which is needed for Calcium absorption.
Let’s go through all important nutrients first, then cover the details regarding scheduling in the section after that.
Calcium
Calcium is needed by Leopard Geckos mainly for bone health, but also for overall function. A deficiency in Calcium will end deadly for these reptiles. That’s why supplementing calcium is critical to your gecko’s health.
Generally, there are three ways to do this:
Gut-loading: The least common is gut-loading your feeder insects with calcium during the 24h before they are fed to your gecko. For example, if you’re feeding your gecko five mealworms tomorrow, put those five into a smaller container with some food (more on that later). Dust that food with some reptile calcium supplement, which the mealworms will eat. As commercial feeder insects are often quite low in nutrients (including calcium) because of their cheap diet, this boosts their calcium content considerably.
Dusting: The most common way is to dust your feeder insects directly before feeding. Put them in a very small container or zip-lock bag, add calcium powder, and give it a good shake. Now they are ready to be served to your Leopard Gecko. Keep in mind that crickets will clean themselves, and much of that dust will be off their skin within about 15 minutes. This is still the simplest solution, and works even with crickets.
A calcium dish: A bit controversial, but done successfully for years: Keep a small dish with calcium powder in the gecko’s tank. This way, they can lick some up whenever they feel they need it. This is the closest to their self-regulating calcium-intake in the wild, where they get some from mineral deposits in rocks. However, there is concern that they can consume too much calcium this way. Keep an eye on their behavior – excessive licking of calcium might be something to talk with your vet about.
The general recommendation is to do at least the dusting with most meals, but the gut-loading can be a good addition. The calcium dish can be done as well – just don’t think you can or should only choose one of these methods.
Vitamin D
Vitamin D is critically important for Leopard Geckos because of its role in calcium absorption: A deficiency in vitamin D leads to bad intake of calcium. Even with all the calcium supplementation, a gecko without enough vitamin D will suffer from calcium deficiency.
Vitamin D is supplemented the same way as calcium: Mainly by dusting, with gut-loading and a small dish as optional additions.
However, there is a currently unproven risk of an overdose – while no real research has been done, there are claims of Leopard Geckos overdosing on a dish in the tank with a calcium + vitamin D mix (these supplements are often sold as one). Calcium is considered safe, but too much vitamin D might be a problem. That’s why you’ll often see the recommendation to only put pure calcium in the tank, without vitamin D. This is not yet proven to be correct, but likely a safe choice.
Additionally, a UVB lamp also supplies vitamin D if one is used in the tank. Historically, Leopard Geckos were bred in captivity without UVB as they were considered nocturnal. However, now we know that they are actually crepuscular, and do indeed absorb vitamin D from the sun. That’s why a lamp emitting UVB is a good source of vitamin D, but should not replace supplementation.
Vitamin A
Vitamin A is the most important vitamin after vitamin D, needed for both skin and immune system. Unlike the others, it is mainly supplemented through multi-vitamins. These are usually dusted instead of Calcium and vitamin D with some meals.
There is some research suggesting that vitamin A should be supplemented directly, rather than supplementing beta-carotene. This seems to be absorbed by Leopard Geckos less effectively than vitamin A. When buying a multi-vitamin, you may keep this in mind, but again, there is no absolute proof for that yet.
Fiber
Unlike the other supplements, fiber can’t and shouldn’t be supplemented directly. Instead, feed your feeder insects with fiber-rich foods (generally healthy greens and vegetables) to increase their fiber content. Fiber is necessary for a healthy digestion, as Leopard Geckos can suffer from digestive issues just as we do.
Phosphorus
Leopard Geckos need phosphorus roughly in a 1:2 ratio to calcium (twice as much calcium as phosphorus). However, most common feeder insects have much more phosphorus than calcium (3-7x more), which is why calcium needs to be supplemented. That means that phosphorus is already covered by their normal intake from feeder insects and is nothing you need to worry about.
Feeding Schedule for Leopard Geckos
The feeding schedule for a Leopard Gecko depends heavily on its age. Baby Leos need food much more often (daily), while fully grown adults only need to eat every few days. The amount of feeder insects per meal often stays roughly the same, instead the size of the insects you feed them changes.
Regardless of age or feeder insect, you should feed your Leopard Geckos when they are naturally active: During dusk or dawn, possibly at night but not during the day.
As they are actively hunting during twilight and early in the night, that’s the time that’s most natural for them to feed. Offering them food during the day can disrupt their normal rythm.
Feeding schedule for baby Leopard Geckos
Baby Leopard Geckos, which they are up until they are 6 months old, need a lot of food and supplements while they are growing. They should be fed daily, and all meals need to be supplemented with Calcium and Vitamin powder.
The insects you feed a baby gecko should be about 0.25 inches (0,6 cm) large, not bigger. As a general rule of thumb, no insect should ever be bigger (wider) than the space between the gecko’s eyes. That’s roughly how large their throat is, so any bigger insect might cause them to choke.
The recommended diet is about the same as for adult geckos: Focus on a variety of feeder insects, especially Dubia roaches, crickets, and mealworms – all only up to 0.25 inches in size.
Another factor to keep in mind is feeding time – whatever your gecko hasn’t eaten within the first 15 minutes, you should remove again. Geckos in the wild tend to be under-nourished, since they have to hunt for food. Even in captivity, when given the chance, Geckos will overeat because of this. That’s why you will have to control how much your gecko eats, rather than offering food until it is “full” – this will lead to obesity.
Feeding schedule for juvenile Leopard Geckos
Since they are still growing, juvenile Leopard Geckos (6-12 months old) need more food than adults. The general recommendation is feeding them once every other day. To make the transition easier, it’s also a good idea to start reducing the feeding frequency at around 6 months from 7 days per week to 6 days per week, then to 5 and so on, until you are at the new normal of every other day. This can be done across about a month to accustom your gecko to the new feeding schedule.
Similarly to baby geckos, juvenile Leopard Geckos should only eat feeder insects up to 0.5 inches (1,2 cm) in size – otherwise, they might get digestion problems or even choke.
The mix of crickets, Dubia roaches, and mealworms is still a good diet, and supplementing at every meal still applies.
Feeding schedule for adult Leopard Geckos
Once fully grown at 12 months, adult Leopard Geckos can eat most normal-sized feeder insects. Unlike human adults, geckos now need food less often, though they eat more per meal than gecko babies.
As a general rule, you should feed your adult gecko about 2-3 times per week. If it starts gaining weight, it’s a good idea to reduce the frequency or amount of food you give them, but if there is no change in weight, your feeding schedule is just fine.
At this point, you can reduce supplementation to about twice per week. The opinions here vary, but you can either dust all feeder insects with calcium every meal, or only for 1-2 meals per week. Vitamins should also be supplemented at least once a week.
Feeding schedule overview
Here’s a quick summary of the feeding schedule of the different ages. The number of feeder insects remains the same for Dubia roaches, crickets, or mealworms, since they should all be about the same size. You can and should pick a mix of different insects to reach the total recommended number, rather than choosing that number of one type of insect.
| Age | Frequency | Insect size | Number of insects |
|---|---|---|---|
| Baby | Daily | max. 0.25 inches | 5-8 |
| Juvenile | Every other day | max. 0.5 inches | 5-8 |
| Adult | 2-3 times per week | about 1 inch | 6-10 |
Remember the 15-minute rule, though: What isn’t eaten within 15 minutes gets taken away! You don’t want your gecko to over-eat, or any insects to escape and burrow. Also remove any half-eaten insects to prevent rotting.
Supplementation schedule overview
As a general rule, you’ll want to supplement every meal. Dust every meal with either a mix of calcium and vitamin D, or a multi-vitamin mix.
In practice, here’s an example schedule:
- Multi-Vitamin: Every 3-4 meals.
- Calcium: Every meal (except on the multi-vitamin meal)
- Vitamin D: Always when dusting with calcium
If you have a UVB lamp, you can reduce vitamin D supplementation to every second meal.
Since you’ll be supplementing calcium and vitamin D together, it makes sense to get a reptile supplement powder that contains both calcium and vitamin D – most do, actually.
Supplementing by Leopard Gecko age
As you notice, the schedule is not age-specific. This is because the feeding schedule determines the supplementation.
Baby Leopard Geckos need more calcium and vitamins for growing. Since they are fed daily, they receive these supplements daily. Multivitamins once or twice per week.
Juvenile Leopard Geckos need a little more than adult geckos – but with a higher feeding frequency, the supplements are also given in higher frequency.
Following this simple approach makes it easy for you to keep track of supplements, which makes it easier to follow a good routine.
You can adjust it if you feel the need to (or your vet rcommends it), but the more complicated a routine is, the more mistakes people usually make – or forget.
Water
Leopard Geckos need water, like most living animals. However, unlike humans, Leopard Geckos get most of their water from food and the air. As you notice in the nutrient table for feeder insects, they have a very high moisture content. Providing an additional water source is still necessary, though.
Your Leopard Gecko should have a dedicated water dish in their tank at all times. It should be large enough for your gecko to get completely into the water, but still be quite shallow.
Your gecko will and should get into the dish from time to time, especially if it needs more moisture during shedding. You must make sure that the water level reaches the belly, but doesn’t go much higher – or your gecko could drown.
Type of water to use
The water needs to be clean, but not distilled. If you have high-quality tap water, this is fine. If your water quality is not that good, the water needs to be cleaned with a reptile water conditioner, first. This is to remove any harmful chemicals like chlorines and chloramines. It’s never a bad choice to use a bit of such condition, even with high-quality tap water. Alternatively, you can use bottled water.
Cleaning the water dish
The water dish should be washed off 2-3 times per week to clean it, then filled with fresh water.
Once per week, thoroughly clean the dish with an antibacterial dish detergent, then rinse it carefully with warm water to remove any soap residue.
Once a month, disinfect the dish completely by soaking it in a 5% bleach solution for 30-60 minutes, then rinsing it off thoroughly again.
Placement of the water dish
The placement of the water dish depends on your humidity levels. If the humidity in the tank is relatively low, moving the dish toward the warm side increases the rate of evaporation and raises humidity. If the humidity is already good or even high, put the water dish on the cool side of the tank. (Read more about Leopard Gecko tank temperature management if you don’t have a warm and cool side yet)
How long can Leopard Geckos go without food?
In the wild, Leopard Geckos survive without food for 2-4 months during brumation/hibernation – a period where they hide during cold winter months. However, during this time, their bodies slow down to conserve energy, and they barely move. In a normal captive environment, your Leopard Gecko should not go without food for more than a month.
Additionally, baby and juvenile Leopard Geckos need food much more often for their growth – if they stop eating, you should not wait for more than a few days to do a check-up on them!
If you notice your Leopard Gecko isn’t eating, you should make sure that it is healthy and in good condition – while there are many harmless reasons for them to stop eating for a while, it can also be an indicator of a health problem. More on that in the next question.
Why is my Leopard Gecko not eating?
Common reasons why your Leopard Gecko is not eating are: a tank that’s too cold, impaction, injury, stress, or during shedding/egg laying. If your gecko is rejecting food for a few days, you don’t need to worry immediately. However, if this drags on for over a week, a visit to the vet is a good idea.
Tank temperature. Geckos should have about 70-77°F (21-25°C) on the cool side, and 90-92°F (32-33°C) on the warm side of the tank. If temperatures are dropping, a gecko might slow down and stop eating just as it would in the wilderness during the colder seasons.
Impaction. Impaction is a digestive issue where indigestible material like chitin or sand blocks the gecko’s digestive tract. It prevents them from digesting food and can be fatal if not treated. If you notice a swelling or an unusual dark spot on the gecko’s belly, it might be impaction. Go to the vet immediately, as every passing day reduces the chance of a successful treatment.
Injury. An injured gecko might lose appetite for a while. If you notice an injury that’s causing your gecko to ignore food, you should get a professional opinion and treatment options. It might be temporary and quickly healed, but in case it’s not, an early checkup can save your gecko.
Stress. A stressed gecko might not eat due to a new environment, like when you first buy it or move it, or if a lot is going on around it. It can help to put your gecko’s tank somewhere quieter for a while and see if that helps. Slowly introduce it back to its regular place, or permanently switch the tank’s location.
Shedding/egg laying. If your gecko starts shedding or laying eggs, often a few days earlier, it might stop eating for a while. It’s good to offer food once in a while in case the gecko gets hungry, but don’t worry if it ignores the food for a week or two. (remove any uneaten food after 15 minutes, never leave it in the tank) A female gecko may be in the egg-laying-cycle for 1-3 months, during which time it may be eating less than usual. Make extra sure to provide plenty of Calcium during this time (like by keeping a small bowl of Calcium powder in the tank), and offer fatty worms like mealworms or hornworms from time to time.
Can Leopard Geckos eat vegetables?
Since they’re insectivores, Leopard Geckos cannot digest vegetables. They may nibble at them, but their digestive system is incapable of digesting vegetables, or extracting any nutrients from them. You should not feed your Leopard Gecko any vegetables, greens, or other non-insect food. Only gut loaded feeder insects should provide vegetables, indirectly.
My Leopard Gecko is losing weight!
If your gecko is losing weight, it is most likely not healthy. If it is not eating, refer to the list above for possible reasons. If the gecko is eating, try offering more food and supplement with extra mealworms or hornworms, as these have lots of fat. In any case, bringing your gecko to an expert is a good idea to properly diagnose the problem, rather than self-diagnosing. If you miss a serious problem such as an infection, impaction, or a parasite, it can lead to suffering and possibly death.
Are mealworms or wax worms better for leopard geckos?
Mealworms are better for leopard geckos. Mealworms are a great food source for Leopard Geckos because they are high in protein and okay in fat. Wax worms, on the other hand, are high in fat and can cause obesity if fed in large quantities. They can be fed as treats, but should not be fed regularly.
Is it OK to feed Leopard Gecko only mealworms?
Leopard Geckos should not be fed exclusively on mealworms for a long period of time. As mealworms are higher in fat than the recommended intake (~50% vs 20% recommended), you’ll risk either providing too little protein (if feeding fewer mealworms), or providing too much fat and causing weight gain. Leopard Geckos often have a tendency to overeat when given the chance.
Instead, add some crickets, black soldier fly larvae, or dubia roaches as “lean food”. Mealworms can still be used as the main food source, which many gecko owners do because of their simplicity.
Can Leopard Gecko eat a silk moth?
Yes, silk moths are safe to eat for Leopard Geckos – however, they are difficult to catch, since they can fly. Many geckos enjoy the occasional challenge, though. So if a silkworm escapes in your gecko’s enclosure, you don’t need to worry – even as a moth, it presents no threat.
How many wax worms should I feed my leopard gecko a day?
You should not feed many wax worms to your Leopard Gecko beyond the occasional treat. They are very high in fat and will cause fast weight gain if you feed them regularly to your gecko. However, you can feed your gecko around 2 to 5 of them about once a month as a treat. If your reptile is losing weight, you can increase this to 2 or 3 times per month, but keep the number of worms the same.